Our combination of expertise across stones, settings, design and service will ensure that you’re able to select the perfect bespoke diamond engagement ring for that special moment.
A bespoke diamond engagement ring is made especially for you. By choosing this service from Henry Pruwer, you ensure that every diamond is meticulously placed exactly according to your wishes. Our job is to use our experience and expertise to present you with carefully vetted choices and combinations; so you know they will work and can have great confidence in the finished ring.
We make a note of your wishes, asking detailed questions and develop a design brief especially for you. This is then carefully refined, taking in your budget, timing and all other considerations.
The Design Process
We always start with your input. Have you been looking at diamond rings on Instagram, Pinterest or somewhere else? Have you asked their friends? – and most importantly, have you been listening out for any casually dropped hints? They may well have mentioned how pretty this or that diamond engagement ring or solitaire style looked on such and such a person or celebrity.
Once we have the basics, including shape of diamond, style of ring, choice of metal, and of course budget, we will prepare a selection of diamonds for you to look at and compare. In our view, the central solitaire is by far the most important choice for your diamond ring. When you have chosen a solitaire gemstone that ‘sings’ to you, everything else will easily fall into place.
So what’s first?
Let’s start with the diamond for your solitaire. Should it be a round brilliant cut or perhaps a princess cut? We will be guiding you through the different diamond shapes and qualities, so you can confirm your preference. At this early stage, the colour and clarity of your ideal solitaire diamond can be broadly established. We find that many clients already come to us with a strong idea of what they would like, perhaps saying “It should be a D colour” or “It must be VVS”. We can help you take these wishes into account when deciding on the engagement ring.
We then come to the setting for your engagement ring. With the gemstone you have chosen in mind, and any design input you may have, we can sketch out some design ideas for your diamond ring. Practical considerations are important, such as, ‘Do they play a lot of sports? Must the engagement ring be quite robust?’ Some clients prefer a simple look, some want a dramatic statement and others look for a more petite and very feminine look. We can help translate these preferences into the ideal engagement ring.
Our specialist goldsmith will then take your concept input and our design sketches and start to interpret them into a CAD design. This is the blueprint for the actual engagement ring, and once the CAD is drawn up on screen and approved, a 3D wax or metal model of the ring can be produced. This is so as the client, you can have an exact idea of what your ring will look like. The added benefit of a 3D model of your engagement ring is that we can place the actual solitaire diamond into the model. You will then be able to see and touch a realistic model of what the final ring will look like!
By this stage, we will have helped you choose the perfect diamond for your bespoke solitaire engagement ring and we then go on to match this stone with a perfect setting. The exact dimensions of your chosen diamond are taken into account when designing the ring. Any side stones or halo diamonds will also be incorporated at this stage. As a matter of course, we always take into account whether a wedding band will be worn next to the solitaire engagement ring, as this is an important consideration that can affect the design.
Creating Your Bespoke Engagement Ring
We always check whether our client has already been ‘briefed’ by their partner. Have they dropped any hints here or there? Or have they even stated directly – “I want this and this!” Having established any such wishes, we always advise our clients to stick closely, very closely, to the brief! By dropping hints, they have made the choice much easier for you! (ignore these hints at your peril)
We usually commence with very broad categories and then narrow down the search. Your choice of bespoke diamond engagement ring will be guided by the budget. It is our duty to stay within this budget and not to come up with unexpected extra costs at a later stage. Our recommendation is to always concentrate the effort and the main investment on the centre gemstone and the budget for the whole ring should reflect this accordingly.
If the client really wants a particular size or quality of diamond, but the budget does not stretch to this, we will do our level best to help find the best stone possible and then create a matching ring accordingly.
The Solitaire Ring
When it comes to designing a solitaire ring just for you, the best examples and inspiration can come from viewing a selection of the bespoke rings we have made in the past for our clients. In that way, you will be able to see the workmanship involved and confirm any ideas you have in mind.
Round Brilliant Diamond
This is the most common choice of gemstone for an engagement ring. Designed in Antwerp back in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky as the ultimate way to achieve the most sparkle from a rough stone, the round brilliant cut diamond has a total of 57 facets, 33 in the top section and 25 on the bottom half. All these facets must be perfectly aligned to create a tiny ‘hall of mirrors’ where the light coming into the diamond reflects many times until it leaves the stone, creating a vision of sparkles with each movement of the stone. Because of the large number of facets positioned on such a tiny stone, it is very difficult indeed to get them perfectly aligned, requiring modern technology and expert polishers. Even with all these facets, many diamonds can be lifeless, due to poor cutting and polishing or inclusions disturbing the light flow. An expert can guide you towards the best choice of stone for your ring. We will show you different diamonds next to each other, so you can see the difference yourself.
Emerald Cut Diamond
Emerald cut diamonds have fewer facets than the round brilliant cut, whose shape and cut are optimised to achieve the maximum sparkle possible. An emerald cut diamond stands for understated elegance. Fewer facets don’t mean an emerald cut diamond lacks character! What it does mean is that when choosing an emerald cut diamond, it is important to get the right advice, as the colour and clarity of the diamond are far more noticeable in this shape of gemstone. In particular, inclusions that would be almost invisible in other stones can become immediately apparent in emerald-cut diamonds. The symmetry of an emerald cut diamond will also make the difference between ugly black shadows or elegant depth and beauty.
Your work and patience has paid off with great results. She is delighted with the ring! Thank you for all you have done for us.
Choosing the right metal
Your choice of the right metal for an engagement ring is an important one, as it will influence both the look and feel of the actual ring. We work with yellow, white and rose gold, as well as platinum. Only the finest quality 18 carat gold is used for our solitaire engagement rings, 75% pure gold blended with other pure materials to achieve the best colour and durability. Some metal can be porous, with tiny holes that weaken the ring. We always check the metal castings carefully to eliminate any defects.
When choosing your setting, keep in mind that with diamond rings, less metal is more sparkle! What we mean by this is that the less metal seen, the more the diamonds will shine. Sometimes the metal is so fine, the diamond can appear to float on the finger. When making such a delicate setting, it is even more important to ensure the stability of the ring and that the diamond is held securely.
Platinum is, in our opinion, the finest metal for diamond jewellery. We only use 950 platinum, which is 95% pure metal. Platinum is about 20% denser than white gold, meaning the same ring will feel ‘weightier’ in platinum compared to gold. Platinum is a stronger and more durable metal, so a platinum engagement ring will hold the diamond very securely indeed. The hardness of this metal makes it less malleable, and therefore more difficult to work with, requiring specialist expertise to make a delicate piece of jewellery. The final result can be fabulous, with very little metal visible.
Reminiscent of the pure gold used in ancient jewellery, a yellow gold engagement ring set with a white diamond can be both modern and historical at the same time. Today’s 18 carat gold is an alloy of 75% pure gold blended with silver and copper. Whilst pure gold is very soft and malleable, the 18-carat alloy makes it more durable and suitable for making into jewellery that can be worn every day. Yellow gold can add a yellow tint to the solitaire diamond, so your choice of diamond colour is perhaps even more important when the diamond will be set into a yellow gold ring.
The soft pink hue of 18 carat rose gold is achieved by adding silver and copper alloy to the pure gold metal. The pure white of a solitaire diamond will set off very well against the rosy pink of the gold, creating a delicately sparkling effect. The addition of a halo of small diamonds around the central solitaire can be very effective in a rose gold engagement ring.
White gold is a very popular choice for diamond solitaire engagement rings, coming just after platinum in the preference of metals. An alloy of 75% pure gold blended with silver, platinum or palladium; white gold is very durable. In the final stage of making and polishing a white gold ring, we will usually add rhodium plating, which gives the ring surface an extra layer of hardness, coupled with a bright white shine. One perceived disadvantage of white gold is that it may need replating every few years to bring back its brilliance, whereas platinum will develop a timeless sheen.
Sometimes the choice of a larger diamond, in perhaps an L or M colour, can combine well with a yellow gold setting. Expert guidance is important to ensure the diamond has sparkle and life, even in a gemstone with a somewhat lower colour grade. A certificate will not help with this kind of choice. It is also possible to use white gold prongs in a yellow band or yellow prongs on a white band, depending on what will show off the central solitaire diamond to best effect.
Just wanted to let you know that she absolutely loved her ring and the size is perfect!! Thank you so much!!